20th anniversary of the Grand Seiko 9S mechanical calibre

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May 4, 2018

20th anniversary of the Grand Seiko 9S mechanical calibre

The Grand Seiko 9S mechanical calibre is a reference of esteemed provenance, we dare say, beyond reproach. At the launch of the very first Grand Seiko watch in 1960, Seiko Corp was obsessed with producing the most precise mechanical watches possible. In fact, the first Grand Seiko launched achieved chronometer standard rated by the Swiss Bureaux Officiels de Controle de la Marche des Montres. This meant that Grand Seiko models with the Chronometer appellation achieved mean daily rates of between -3 and +12 seconds. That said, an understandable if controversial decision by the Swiss agency soon meant that only Swiss watches could be certified chronometers and so, rejection by the Swiss Bureau and the perfectionist attitude of the Japanese led to two key developments: chiefly, the introduction of the “Grand Seiko Standard” and 10 years later, the debut of the V.F.A or “Very Fine Adjusted” series.

Understanding Grand Seiko Standard comparative to VFA

The famed “Grand Seiko Standard” was defined by a daily rate of between -3 and +5 seconds but the the “Grand Seiko Very Fine Adjusted Standard”, achieved a mean daily rate of between -2 and +2 seconds per day. However, the Quartz revolution heralded by Seiko themselves would not only see only 11 VFA models from 1970 to 72 but also the use of the VFA appellation on precision quartz calibres. By 1975, Seiko’s “Quartz Superior” had become its literal namesake with +/-1 second variation per month that the entire Grand Seiko range was discontinued and mothballed. Till 1988 where Grand Seiko returned once again as a high precision quartz model and another 30 years, before we could have another VFA certified Grand Seiko model today.

20th anniversary of the Grand Seiko 9S mechanical calibre

At Baselworld 2018, Grand Seiko released a wholesome threesome of limited edition timepieces marking the epic 20th anniversary of the first modern mechanical Grand Seiko calibre relaunched in 1998. The 9S calibre was entirely new and designed from scratch to deliver the high precision and excellent durability for which Grand Seiko was renowned.

Today, new Spron alloys for both the main and balance springs and MEMS engineering, a technique that allows key components to be manufactured to tolerances as small as one thousandth of a millimetre make the entire Grand Seiko suite powered by 9S mechanical calibres, one of the world’s finest references.

This new 2018 creation proudly carries on the V.F.A. tradition thanks to the extraordinary precision rate of its 9S85 Hi-Beat 36000 calibre, +3 to -1 seconds per day, a level achieved by the highest level of adjustment and a testing program extended to 34 days. The 20 piece limited edition Grand Seiko 9S is offered in a platinum 950 case (€53,300) which is a new interpretation of the most widely admired Grand Seiko design, created by Nobuhiro Kosugi, the designer of the first 9S watch in 1998.

Way of the Samurai: Zaratsu polishing on the anniversary of the Grand Seiko 9S

Two surfaces of Zaratsu polishing extend to the very edge of the lug where these curved surfaces meet the hairline finish to create a perfect triangle that only the most skilled Grand Seiko craftsmen and women can achieve. The dial, too, is exceptional; its design incorporates the special mark that was used to designate the watches made by the team at Daini Seikosha, the company now known as Seiko Instruments Inc.

The 9S anniversary is also celebrated in gold and steel: Two additional limited editions celebrate the 20th anniversary of the 9S calibre. The first is in an 18k gold case and the second in stainless steel. Both share the same case design as the V.F.A. creation, the same calibre 9S85 and the same dial design.

The limited edition 150 piece Grand Seiko Special standard and offers a precision rate of +4 to -2 seconds per day while the 1500 piece limited edition Hi-Beat 3600 SBGH267 offers a precision rate of +5 to -3 seconds.

Grand Seiko 9S Price and Specs

Movement Automatic Grand Seiko 9S with 55 hours Power Reserve
Case 38.5mm platinum, gold or steel case with 100 metres water resistance
Strap Leather or bracelet
Price Prices start from €6,300

Reed Krakoff Debuts Cutting Edge Designs for Tiffany & Co.’s Biggest Launch Yet

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May 3, 2018

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2^nd of May marks Tiffany & Co.’s first step towards a contemporary revolution as Reed Krakoff launches his first high jewellery collection ever since he assumed his position as the brand’s Chief Artistic Officer in February 2017. Krakoff is the same man who turned Coach from a basic leatherwear to a $4 billion fashion clout-haven. The American designer ditched leather for diamonds when he joined the jewellery retailer in an effort to revitalise the global luxury jeweller. Today, he unveils the biggest launch in a decade for Tiffany & Co.

Reed Krakoff Debuts Cutting Edge Designs for Tiffany & Co.’s Biggest Launch Yet

Called Paper Flowers, Krakoff’s latest collection was inspired by the organic strokes and asymmetrical shape of flower petals cut from a piece of paper. The new Tiffany pieces are in many ways emblematic to his personal mantra, “formality doesn’t equal luxury”. Where the jewellery pieces are made for day-to-day dressing despite the extravagant materials used to make them. To Krakoff, his debut Tiffany & Co collection signifies a new chapter of reverence for the past yet injecting creativity and excitement as the company retains its zeitgeist relevance as potently since Holly Golightly named dropped the maison for in the seminal namesake movie.

The Krakoff’s debut Tiffany & Co collection runs a gamut of pendants, earrings and rings in abstract pieces of diamonds. The star of the lot is none other than the bib necklace set made from 68 carats of high jewellery diamonds. It must be said that for Tiffany & Co, the wealth of popular classic designs has been big money makers for the brand. That said, each line is now meticulously planned, designed and launched with the intent of becoming the next headliner. Undoubtedly, there are those who remain ambivalent to the idea of a fashion designer at the helm of a luxury jewellery house. To that, Bogliolo the CEO of Tiffany & Co. said “We are very confident about it,” that they are counting on Reed Krakoff to restore the brand’s signature aesthetics.”

While it is indisputable that the trendy-luxe aesthetics of Tiffany & Co. designers Elsa Peretti and Paloma Picasso exemplified in the Tiffany T and Tiffany HardWear are the brand’s most recent mega-hits, the Krakoff’s Tiffany Paper Flowers recollects the heritage and whimsy of the house’s most iconic designer, Jean Schlumberger. In fact Schlumberger’s highly imaginative pieces were responsible for Tiffany’s golden age and top tier positioning during the 1950s and 60s, his creations were in fact, seen in the film, Breakfast at Tiffany’s.

Enrol at Van Cleef & Arpels in NYC

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May 3, 2018

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Get dressed for your first day of school as Van Cleef & Arpels is airlifting its world-famous institute from Paris to NYC for three weeks this fall. The nomadic, hands-on approach embraced by the esteemed French school has travelled to Dubai and Hong Kong and is now finally popping up in the US. Planning to be located at the Academy Mansion, on the Upper East Side, the school will be there from 24 Oct till 9 Nov.

Open to the public, the range of classes offered by Van Cleef Arpels’ Jewelry-art Institute, L’École des Arts Joailliers, will include hands-on technical and artistic workshops, classes in gemology, and lectures in jewelry history.

One can now Enrol at Van Cleef Arpels in NYC

According to Marie Vallanet-Delhom, president of L’École des Arts Joailliers, all the school resources will be wholly transported to New York, including “a huge range of materials, jeweler’s tools, artwork, gemstones — and, of course … the teachers themselves.”

Pick up some tweezers at this jewelry-art school.

New Yorkers will have the precious chance to “put on the jeweler’s white coat, sit down at the bench, pick up the tools and try setting stones, carving wax, polishing, opening up the mises à jour [the back of settings, allowing light to shine through gems] with the hacksaw — all the while guided by a master jeweler,” promises Vallanet-Delhom.

“In this digital age, where there is such prioritizing of all that is instant, people yearn to experience slowly learned, apprentice-based arts practiced by our ancestors,” she adds. “In order for these arts to thrive, the general public needs to understand them.”

Attend technical and artistic workshops, classes in gemology, and lectures in jewelry history.

Although VCA founded the school in 2012, it’s run independently from the brand. “It’s a separate entity — we want novices and connoisseurs to experience the rich world of jewelry, not only from Van Cleef & Arpels but also from other creators and maisons,” explains Alain Bernard, president and CEO of Van Cleef & Arpels Americas.

Since its inception in 1906, the Parisian brand’s passion for craft has led it to sponsor numerous arts and educational projects besides this school.

“Reflections” performed at the Paris Opera House, sponsored by Van Cleef Arpels

In 1967, Van Cleef partnered with iconic ballet choreographer George Balanchine for a performance named “Jewels”. Inspired by VCA jewelry, the piece featured dazzlingly embellished costumes designed by the house. A more recent ballet piece VCA has collaborated with was with the Paris Opera House, titled “Reflections“.

Ballet piece “Gems” from LA Dance Project in 2013.

VCA commissioned another Benjamin Millepied’s LA Dance Project’s piece, “Gems”, in 2013. The brand still continues to support the school. Other schools that it has partnered with includes the School of American Ballet for their annual winter balls in NYC.

“ Jewelry is an elevated art form, just like dance and literature and design,” Bernard notes, “wearable pieces of art — art that adorns your own body, which makes them even more elevated in a way.”

Other sponsorships of Van Cleef Arpels include the New York Academy of Art Tribeca Ball, which raises funds for art-student scholarships; the Cooper Hewitt’s annual “Design by Hand” series of public workshops and lectures; and the Albertine Prize, supporting that beloved French bookstore on the UES.

“This sort of support is not only an incredible sense of inspiration for our creations, but it’s what we feel is a true mission and profoundly important to us,” notes Bernard.

Van Cleef Arpels Ballet Précieux collection

VCA’s first venture upon the American land in 1942 was located on the corner of 57th Street and Fifth Avenue, where the flagship boutique stands till to this day.

“It says a lot about our deep historical connections with the city,” says Bernard. Then, with a hopeful sigh: “One day I hope a branch of L’École des Arts Joailliers will be permanently located in New York.”

Prices of the classes will range from SGD$20 to $340.

Art Revolution Taipei 2018: A Preview

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May 3, 2018

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A collage of works audiences can expect at Art Revolution Taipei 2018. Image courtesy the art fair.

Boasting an impressive medley of artworks, Art Revolution Taipei (A.R.T.) is back for at the Taipei World Trade Centre. In conjunction with the Taiwan International Contemporary Artist Association, A.R.T will also present selected works from The International Artist Grand Prize Competition (I.A.C.), a staple at the annual fair.

A.R.T. has a unique approach that has created for the fair a well-deserved place in the Asian art fair scene. Instead of taking the conventional route of centring its show around its partner commercial galleries, A.R.T aims to place the artist at the forefront of the fair’s curatorial direction. Every booth is thus structured to resemble solo exhibitions of individual artists, which has allowed the fair to showcase the talents and creative visions of the artists. This novel approach seems to have worked well in the fair’s favour, winning over art collectors and enthusiasts alike. Last year’s iteration saw 91.66% of the artworks sold, with a total of 300 exhibiting artists confirming sales.

Views of the art fair in 2017. Image courtesy Art Revolution Taipei.

The I.A.C. continues to sustain artists’ and the public’s interest in the fair. Open to artists worldwide, this year, the competition has seen the likes of Surrealist Spanish oil painter, August Vilella, who has been exhibited in the Louvre Museum in Paris and previously won the first prize at the Tokyo International Art Fair and Tsegmed Tserennadmid, winner of the Mongolian National Prize and the Best Artist of the Year in his native Mongolia, take part. In all, there were 4546 entries from artists across 87 countries. Out of these, 317 artworks have been selected for exhibition at A.R.T. 2018.

From the exhibited entries, a jury will select artists to participate in the International Artist Salon in A.R.T. 2019, with X-Power Gallery sponsoring one or two exhibition units, as well as return shipping fees of selected artworks.

Another popular initiative at the fair is ‘Art Your Compassion’, where celebrities and socialites create artworks for sale to the fairgoers in various mediums, with proceeds going towards charity.

ART REPUBLIK is proud to be a media partner of A.R.T.

More information at.arts.org.tw.

Discover a world of scents at Maison Christian Dior

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May 3, 2018

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Discover a world of scents at Maison Christian Dior

Maison Christian Dior makes its first mark of craft in an airport in Asian Pacific, opening at Changi Airport Terminal 3’s Transit Hall on 2 April. The 45-square-metre boutique is cosy like a Parisian apartment, aptly conveying the intimate and personal relationship between a fragrance and its users — the brand philosophy.

The elegant and homely boutique is lined with white marble, pristine concrete and warm parquet flooring, almost like a diorama in a Parisian apartment. Signature fragrances from the fashion house will be offered at the boutique, including bestsellers like The Cashmere, Lucky and Sakura.

The store interior that mimics an apartment – including a digital window.

Expect top-notch service there, where you can leisurely explore the diverse range of scents and learn of the history and inspiration behind each scent, before you finally decide on the unique scent to make yours. This personal connection is a huge part of the brand’s philosophy, that believes that each fragrance develops an inherent relationship with its users.

Aside from the 22 perfumes displayed, a range of Dior’s Mitzah silk scarves, soaps and scented candles will also be stashed on the shelves. Inspired by Christian Dior’s sophisticated muse, Mitzah Bricard, the emblematic silk scarves are not just stylish, but can also play a functional role as scent accessories as well. Wearers can spritz their perfume on the delicate fabric instead of directly on the skin, a clever alternative in Singapore’s humid weather.

Another signature offering at the store will be the meticulous gifting services. Purchases will be wrapped in a beautiful gift box with a choice from six different twines, before being stamped with a wax seal bearing the Maison Christian Dior emblem as the final finishing touch.

Maison Christian Dior has recently opened a new store locally in February as well, located at ION Orchard, #B2-52 Singapore 238801.

Seeking New Horizons: An Interview with John Braithwaite

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May 3, 2018

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Seeking New Horizons: An Interview with John Braithwaite

John Braithwaite’s retirement is not an end to Sunseeker but a new beginning for the luxury performance yachting brand.

Founded in 1969 by brother Robert and John Braithwaite, Sunseeker is the world’s leading brand for luxury performance motor yachts and Britain’s biggest boat builder. John has announced his swan song with his retirement. While the brand has become a global icon, synonymous with unparalleled craftsmanship, design and performance, John believes the company will still ride the crest of the wave.His 53-year tenure has undoubtedly brought much success to this prestigious yachting brand.Interestingly, John’s retirement has been timed to coincide with his 70th birthday celebrations this May and his decision will mark the end of a significant era for both the brand and the industry alike.

His most illustrious contribution to the marine business was when he began his career in 1964 at Friars Cliff Marine, which became Poole Powerboats in 1969 when it moved into the town of Poole and was subsequently renamed as Sunseeker International in 1985.

Along with his brother, Robert Braithwaite, John has dedicated much of his life to the brand and steadfastly guided the in-house design team over the last five decades, with the clear ambition and vision to deliver the very best boats in the industry. More importantly, John has been instrumental in the development of many revolutionary models, like the iconic Superhawk, the Predator 108 and more recently, the firm’s fastest selling model – the Manhattan 52. As the company’s longest-serving executive, John has been a valuable source of inspiration and guidance for the current Sunseeker executive team.

John and Robert shared a common vision to build “a new kind of boat” at a time when there were no significant builders of boats for the sports and leisure markets in the United Kingdom. From the launch of their first 17-foot open-cockpit speedboat, to the development of the iconic flagship 155 Yacht, John and his team of experienced designers and engineers have continued to set the bar high and break boundaries.

Undoubtedly, John and his team have truly spearheaded the industry of today – pioneering a whole new world of boating lifestyle.

Phil Popham, Chief Executive Officer at Sunseeker International opined, “There is no doubt that John is, and will remain, one of our industry icons. What he has achieved is truly momentous. John has always remained true to building the very best in pleasure craft, utilising the latest technologies and delivering every customer’s dream. John has been involved in designing some of our most renowned boats and on behalf of the whole Sunseeker family, I would like to take this opportunity to thank him for the huge contribution he has made to the brand and the industry. John will of course continue to be an important ambassador for us and I look forward to welcoming him back to Sunseeker events and celebrations in the future but in the meantime we would all like to wish him a very well-deserved retirement.”

On his retirement, John enthused, “I feel immensely privileged to have been part of such an incredible brand and organisation. Since our early days, Robert and I have strived to deliver to our clients the most innovative and exciting products available. That philosophy, together with strong, iconic design has been fundamental to our success and I know this will continue to be a driver for the talented design and development team I leave behind. I would like to thank them all for their dedication over the years.”

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