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Stella McCartney Unveils First Menswear Collection

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London’s Abbey Road studio that was made famous by Paul McCartney and his fellow Beatles, played host to Stella McCartney as she unveiled her first menswear collection on Thursday. The designer referenced the strong connection that her father and his band-mates had with the studio. “It really means a lot to our family this studio… seeing and hearing what’s been created here, the best music in the world” said the designer. “It’s such an iconic place. So many people have recorded here,” she said.

Like the iconic band on its 1969 album cover, models at the show paraded over the same white stripes. The collection featured both playful casual wear as well as more formal tailoring. The designs included blue pinstripe pyjama-like shirts and bright yellow socks as well as a black suit with camel overcoat. Though McCartney has become a household name in the world of fashion, the Central Saint Martins College of Art and Design trained designer has just entered the world of menswear.

“The challenge has been just to look at how men dress but also not over thinking it,” said McCartney. “We want them to be a bit freer and having more fun with their wardrobe and also have timeless beautiful pieces at the same time.” Apart from the iconic location, the show also saw several British creatives such as Anna Friel, rapper M.I.A, models Kate Moss and Twiggy enjoy the show. The collection was accompanied by music performances by Run-DMC, who played the well-known track “Walk this way”. McCartney also unveiled her womenswear collection for spring 2017 at the event.

Art Basel Miami 2016: Ground Control

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Art Basel Miami Beach will launch next month, with 20 artists set to transform Collins Park to a spectacle of art installations. This year’s Art Basel Miami Beach’s Public program will pay homage to the late David Bowie with the theme ‘Ground Control’.

According to curator Nicholas Baume, ‘Ground Control’ will explore how artists “invent and imagine new kinds of space: physical, social and psychic.”

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Eric Baudart, “Atmosphère,” 2016 © Courtesy of Eric Baudart/Edouard Malingue Gallery/Art Basel Art Basel Miami Beach 2016

This year’s Art Basel Miami Beach will feature installation created through repurposing everyday objects. One example is Eric Baudart’s ‘Atmosphère’ (pictured above), which features a fan rotating slowly inside a clear tank filled with peanut oil. Meanwhile, David Adamo will showcase a series of small bronze sculpture depicting Miami-esque items such as flip flops, citrus fruits, and a sandwich from local food stand La Sandwicherie.

For Wagner Malta Tavares’ ‘Malpertuis,’ (pictured below) a 19th-century-style outdoor lamp will be installed in the park landscape and will glow as darkness falls, while Alicja Kwade’s ‘Reise ohne Ankunft (Mercier)’ will feature a bicycle bent into a perfect circle.

Wagner Malta Tavares, "Malpertuis," 2016 © Courtesy of Wagner Malta Tavares/Galeria Marilia Razuk/Art Basel Art Basel Miami Beach 2016
Wagner Malta Tavares, “Malpertuis,” 2016
© Courtesy of Wagner Malta Tavares/Galeria Marilia Razuk/Art Basel
Art Basel Miami Beach 2016

A pair of large bronze handcuffs will shackle a tree for Yoan Capote’s ‘Naturaleza Urbana,’ a commentary on urbanization, while four nearly life-sized aluminum-cast camel sculptures will stand on their own reflections in Jean-Marie Appriou’s ‘Mirage.’

Sol LeWitt and Claudia Comt e contribute works featuring geometric forms, while the human form will also be represented in a number of works, including Tony Matelli’s ‘Jesus’ and Magdalena Abakanowicz’s ’10 Standing Figures.’

Meanwhile, at Miami Beach’s contemporary art museum, recently rebranded The Bass, five brightly painted boulders stacked in the form of a cairn will make up Ugo Rondinone’s towering ‘Miami Mountain.’

The exhibitions at Collin Park will be on display during Art Basel Miami Beach, which runs December 1-4; a selection of works will remain in place through March 15 as part of the program “The Bass Projects.”

www.artbasel.com/miami-beach

Review: Rolex Air-King 2016

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It’s tough being the Rolex Air-King. Despite its illustrious heritage, most people only think about the GMT-Master II when they’re looking for a Rolex aviation watch. Some might bring up the Sky-Dweller but only if hard pressed, and only the truest of Rolex aficionados will remember the Air-King.

You could hardly blame them, though. The GMT-Master II is a pretty hard act to follow, especially after all that fervour surrounding the red-and-blue Pepsi Cerachrom bezel. On hindsight, it appears to be a wise decision for Rolex to only offer it in white gold, because had it been available in steel, their phone lines are going to be burning hotter than the furnaces used to sinter the Cerachrom bezels. But we digress.

The Air-King harks back to the 1930s, a period considered to be the Golden Age of aviation (as mentioned in our previous story on this watch). This was the era of stupendous advancements in flight technology and pioneering achievements in air travel. As a matter of fact, the notion of long-distance flying was realized at this point. English aviator Charles Douglas Barnard was one of the early conquerors of the skies, having set a number of flight records. Of the Rolex Oyster, he said, “The peculiar qualities of this Rolex watch render it eminently suitable for flying purposes and I propose to use it on all my long-distance flights in the future.”

In 1933, Oyster watches accompanied the Houston Expedition as it made the first-ever flight over Mount Everest at an altitude exceeding 10,000m (33,000 feet) in extreme weather conditions. In 1934, Owen Cathcart-Jones and Ken Waller made a return voyage from London to Melbourne (Australia) in record time with a twin-engine De Havilland Comet, using a Rolex Oyster as their on-board chronometer. It is in remembrance of these victorious accounts, and the Oyster’s role in the aviation history, that Rolex revived the Air-King.

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Bearing slight resemblance to the Rolex Explorer, the Air-King enjoys more than 70 years of continuous production, making it one of the longest running Rolex models to date. Introduced in 1945 via ref. 4925, it was made expressly for the RAF pilots involved in the Battle of Britain. Rolex founder, Hans Wilsdorf, personally started a dedicated line of Oysters called the “Air series” for this very purpose, and of all the watches in the Air series (Air-Lion, Air-Tiger, Air-King, and Air-Giant), only the Air-King remains in production.

The simplicity and practicality of the Rolex Air-King remains prevalent in the new ref. 116900. Even though it is a flying Oyster, it guarantees water resistance to 100m, with a case middle machined out of a solid block of steel. Incidentally, Rolex uses only the best steel, which is 904L grade. Like an actual oyster, there is no way you could force open the fluted case back because it has been hermetically screwed down with a special tool, thus ensuring that only Rolex watchmakers can access the movement.

What makes ref. 116900 stand out from the earlier Air-Kings is indisputably its numerals, where the hours are indicated by 3, 6, 9, and the traditional inverted triangle placeholder at 12 o’clock. The numerals for the minutes fill in the space between the hours at five-minute intervals, which is a source of debate for a number of watch aficionados. What is more unanimously appreciated, however, are the Mercedes-style hour hand and the touches of green on the sweeping seconds hand, as well as the Rolex insignia. In striking contrast to these modern aesthetics, the Air-King lettering on the dial takes after the antecedents, which is surely a much cherished design element for all owners of this timeless icon.

 

This article was first published at World of Watches.

Vancouver: Foreign Buyers Taxed, Prices Rocket

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Besides being educated and skilled, those keen on migrating to Vancouver will have to be exceedingly wealthy. Since August 2, buyers who are not citizens or permanent residents in the country, have had to bear a 15% transfer tax when acquiring homes.

For Singaporean computer scientist Eric Kong, the tax is a spanner thrown into the works of his family’s ongoing relocation. “It’s a complete shock, a nightmare. If I’d known this, we would’ve gone somewhere else”, Mr Kong told The Straits Times. He will have to fork out an additional CAD 114,000 ($118,402) to seal the deal for a home that costs CAD 775,000 ($804,819).

Vancouver is one of the world’s top migrant destinations – loved for its clean streets, good infrastructure and non-discriminatory policies – but the controversial tax could wreck its repute, observers said. Canada’s Finance Minister Michael de Jong explained that the tax was imposed to calibrate foreign demand and cater to local needs. A poll by Angus Reid Institute showed that 9 in 10 residents supported the tax, although they expressed doubt that it would taper foreign demand.

How high are prices exactly?

In the last decade, price gains in Vancouver have outstripped that of major cities such as London, New York and San Francisco. A Royal Bank of Canada index found that home ownership in the city currently takes up 90.3% of median household income, prior to taxes. “Clearly, owning a single-detached property at current prices in Vancouver is a luxury that very few locals can afford”, the bank’s economists Craig Wright and Robert Hogue said in a report.

Home prices have fluctuated in the last decade but have been on an uphill climb since mid-2013, according to the Canadian Real Estate Association. Composite home prices gained 32.6% in July, as compared with a year earlier.

Realtor Mark Goodman told Metro Vancouver that sky-high prices have made renting an option. Rents are rising in Vancouver and a 20% increase is expected by the end of 2016. “Rents are finally catching up to (the) housing market”, Mr Goodman said. “It’s not just a trend, it’s something very significant in the marketplace”.

China’s Billionaires: Buyers of today

Official figures show that 90% of homes in Vancouver cost more than CAD 1 million ($1.04 million). This is a 65% increase from a year ago. Over a five-week period this summer, foreigners injected a whopping CAD 1 billion ($1.04 billion) into Vancouver’s real estate.

Media reports have linked some of these purchases to Chinese billionaires. “The wealth here pales in comparison to the wealth in China”, broker Clarence Debelle told Bloomberg. “I show homes every day to Chinese families from Shanghai, Beijing, cities I’ve never heard of, and sometimes it’s just the mother and kids because the father is working”, he said.

A look into the future

While the tax is unlikely to curb demand from the ultra-rich, it could deter other buyers with tight relocation plans. In the long run, it may take a toll on migration rates, affecting sectors of the job market where foreign expertise is needed.

In the past 12 months, sales of detached houses in Greater Vancouver have falled 47.6%, while total sales were down 32.6%, according to The Globe and Mail. Buyers may look to Toronto for home purchases, the bank added. “Barring the levying of a similar tax, foreign investors could switch focus to the more affordable Toronto market”,
TD Bank explained.

This articles was first published in Palace

The Creative Act: Guggenheim Abu Dhabi

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As it waits the completion of its Frank Gehry-designed building, the Guggenheim Abu Dhabi will hold its second exhibition at the Manarat Al Saadiyat from March 8, 2017.

Titled ‘The Creative Act’, the exhibition will celebrate artists from diverse backgrounds and generations, united through their artistic contributions that revolves around performance, process, and human presence. There will be over 25 different medium of works to be displayed, from installation, painting, photography, sculpture, video and works on paper.

Since the 1960s, artists such as Rasheed Araeen and Mohammed Kazem have adopted the concept of ‘performance’. Meanwhile, the idea of ‘process’ or ‘the act of creation’ will be framed through the creations of Shiraga Kazuo, Tanaka Atsuko, Niki de Saint Phalle, Günther Uecker and Anish Kapoor.

Susan Hefuna will present a video installation, among other works, that explores the theme of human presence through a choreography inspired by everyday movements. It also examines the physical act in an artistic process, and how other people are integrated in an artistic depiction.

Graphite on paper and tracing paper. 34.3 x 41.9 cm; 59.7 x 47 cm. Guggenheim Abu Dhabi. © Susan Hefuna. Photo courtesy Rhona Hoffman Gallery, Chicago. "The Creative Act" at Guggenheim Abu Dhabi
Graphite on paper and tracing paper. 34.3 x 41.9 cm; 59.7 x 47 cm. Guggenheim Abu Dhabi.
© Susan Hefuna. Photo courtesy Rhona Hoffman Gallery, Chicago.
“The Creative Act” at Guggenheim Abu Dhabi

“The Creative Act” follows an inaugural exhibition by the Guggenheim Abu Dhabi that took place in 2014, also at Manarat Al Saadiyat.

While this second exhibition indicates that work on the museum continues — a museum spokesperson told The Art Newspaper that work on the curatorial strategy and collection “is continuing apace” — the future museum building itself remains under development.

Designed by the Pritzker Prize-winning architect, the museum will be situated on a peninsula at the northwestern tip of Saadiyat Island adjacent to Abu Dhabi. Inspired by industrial studio spaces, galleries of varying heights, shapes and character will present the museum’s collection of global art from the 1960s to the present day.

https://www.guggenheim.org

Review: Credor Fugaku Tourbillon Limited Edition

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Grand Seiko is widely recognised as the top echelon of Seiko’s offerings, but for those who are in the know, there is a well-kept secret beyond it: Credor. Timepieces from Credor represent the absolute pinnacle of watchmaking that Seiko has to offer, whether in terms of movement design, production, finishing, and assembly, or the crafts and expertise necessary to produce the rest of the watch. Seiko has, however, only maintained a noticeable presence for this sub-brand in its domestic Japanese market, and put more effort into Grand Seiko for the rest of the world. This looks set to change from 2016, however, with the introduction of the Fugaku Tourbillon Limited Edition.

The Fugaku Tourbillon Limited Edition comes in a limited run of eight pieces and will be sold in Seiko boutiques worldwide. It comes as no surprise then, that Seiko has pulled out all the stops to create a timepiece that is brimming with both technical and artisanal content to give Credor a proper international debut. The watch’s Calibre 6830 movement is based on the ultra-thin Calibre 6800 family, and is Seiko’s first to contain a tourbillon. At just 3.98mm thick, Calibre 6830 is also, according to Seiko, the world’s smallest tourbillon movement by volume.rls1603-05_gbcc999_b-edited

This watch is the most ornate execution of a Credor timepiece yet; past models may have included lavish designs such as skeletonised movements with gold bridges and mainplates, but the Fugaku Tourbillon Limited Edition is clearly on another level with its display of artisanal techniques and materials. The watch depicts a wave motif on both its front and back, based on The Great Wave Off Kanagawa, a Japanese woodblock print first published circa 1830.

The waves are engravings of yellow and white gold here, and vary in thickness from 0.5mm to 1.6mm, which creates depth perception. The tourbillon bridge on the back of the watch also has an engraving of Mt. Fuji (known to the Japanese by another name: Fugaku) to mirror the original print. Lacquering is featured prominently too; note the blue-to-purple gradient from six to 12 o’clock on the dial that mirrors the sky at dawn, as well as the Credor signature executed in gold lacquer. Mother-of-pearl inlays on the dial and case middle contribute yet another texture to the watch.

Finally, the watch has been set with 48 sapphires totalling 3.22 carats. The result is a delightfully varied play with light, from lacquer that looks almost black, to shimmering mother of pearl, to sparkling sapphires, all enhanced by a sense of depth.

Specifications:

  • Dimensions: 43.1mm
  • Functions: Hours, minutes
  • Power Reserve: 37 hours
  • Movement: Manual-winding Seiko Calibre 6830 tourbillon movement with 37-hour power reserve
    Material: 43.1mm in platinum
  • Water Resistant: 30 meters
    Strap: Navy blue crocodile with platinum deployant buckle

This article was first published in World of Watches.

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