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A Brief History of Artist Collectives in Southeast Asia

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The twentieth century was witness to significant changes to the social and political landscapes of the Southeast Asian countries— the rise and fall of Sukarno and Suharto, rulers of two of the most impactful regimes in Indonesia; the Philippines’ struggle for independence from its colonisers; the revival of Cambodia from the devastating repercussions of Pol Pot’s authoritarian control; the transition of Singapore from a fishing village to one of the fastest growing economies in the world and so on. Through the years and the adversities, the search for artistic autonomy and the need for social change in the region often brought individuals together, giving birth to some of the region’s most powerful works of art.

While the ideas of artist collaboration and collectives did not originate in the region, the political contexts within which these artist collectives functioned are unique from the rest of the world. Most historical collectives in the region were organised within the concept of “unity in diversity”. While artists formed unions and pledged their allegiance to a unanimous agenda, their painting styles and artistic explorations varied. This is largely opposed to how we understand collectives today which produce works of art in collaboration. Indeed, some of the most successful initiatives in the Southeast Asian region, past and present, stem from a union based on ideology and shared circumstances rather than practice. Therefore, it is worth discussing the achievements of these collectives keeping in mind their individual circumstances and agendas, as well as their influence on the collectives that succeeded them to find a place in the contemporary art world.

Indonesia has perhaps one of the most extensive histories of artist collectives in the region. One of the earliest and the most influential ones was founded by Indonesian Modern artists S. Sudjojono and Agus Djaja in 1938. The PERSAGI, Persatuan Ahli-Ahli Gambar Indonesia, or Union of Indonesian Painters ,was built upon the search for a national creative identity within a colonial setting. However, the 20 artists were not bound by style but by the ideology that art should mirror the viewpoints of the local people. The formation of PERSAGI is considered an important factor in the progression of a nationalist aesthetic in Indonesia that focused on connecting art to the local community. Sudjojono, for instance, known as the Father of Indonesian Modern Art, primarily found inspiration from the local people and the times in which he lived. He was also actively involved in the freedom struggle and often painted historical events in order to glorify the country’s past.

S. Sudjojono, ‘Kami Present, Ibu Pertiwi’ (Stand Guard for our Motherland), 1965, oil on canvas. Image courtesy National Gallery Singapore.

Succeeding the PERSAGI, the Lembaga Kebudayaan Rakyat or LEKRA (Institute for the People’s Culture) took centre stage both in directing the local art scene towards socialist realism and leading public opinion towards democracy. This particular collective did not only unite visual artists, but also brought together writers, musicians and revolutionaries in an attempt to alter the political landscape of their nation. The LEKRA was also probably the largest collective— and one of the most powerful based on the urgency with which it was subdued by the authorities— to have been formed in the region. Prior to being brutally suppressed during the 30 September Movement coup in 1965 by Suharto’s military forces, the collective had reached a count of 100,000 members. Within fifteen years of its existence, the LEKRA managed to gain enough support from the general public to transform into a semi-political organisation or a “people’s movement” that contributed to altering the course of history for Indonesia.

While these artist collectives, due to their overwhelming size and diversity, does not perfectly fit the definition of an artist collective as we understand it today, their accomplishments as collective voices for social and political change are significant, and examples of such initiatives can still be seen in the region.

During the devastating reign of Pol Pot in Cambodia, the White Building in Phnom Penh had become a site for the emergence of modernist artistic thought. The apartment building was primarily occupied by artists, before and after the genocide in 1970s and remains a cultural symbol to this day. While the initial tenants of the White Building never formally announced their union, a number of artist groups and collaborations emerged from the same space after the end of the authoritarian regime.

Stiev Selapak is an art collective founded in 2007 in Cambodia. It traces its roots back to the White Building, and now functions under only three of the founding members, namely Khvay Samnang, Lim Sokchanlina and Vuth Lyno. They come from different creative background and continue their individual practices while adhering to the agenda of the collective. Together, they have made significant contributions to the Cambodian art scene at large. With two artist spaces as well as a resource centre, the collective regularly hosts residencies, facilitates collaborations and offers classes in order to bring art to the local community and continue the legacy of the White Building.

One of the group’s most appreciated projects was to develop an online archive and database which commemorates the living history of the White Building neighbourhood. In collaboration with Big Stories Co., they have built up a resourceful collection of materials, including old photographs, past and recent works of art as well as audio and visual documentations, that provide insight into the creative past of Phnom Penh and its most vibrant neighbourhood.

Khvay Samnang, ‘Human Nature’, 2010-2011, digital C-Print, 80 x 120 cm/120 x 180 cm. Image courtesy the artist.

Further exploring the social and political circumstances that have led to the emergence of artist collectives in Southeast Asia reveals a shift in artistic motivations towards the end of the twentieth century. Artists began to rethink their position, not as voices of the people but as agents of the nation. While their connection to the general masses only grew stronger, the nationalist sentiments began to fade. Artists began to assume the position of the critics of the state, of the authorities and most importantly, of art.

For instance, with the rise of the authoritarian regime came another wave of creative struggle for local artists in Indonesia. The GRSB or the New Art Movement was founded in 1974 to question artistic legitimacy and the institutionalisation of fine art. As their manifesto ‘Fine Art of Emancipation, Emancipation of Fine Art’, presented in Jakarta on 2 May 1987, announced: “A redefinition of fine art is required, to free it from the definition rooted in artes-liberals seek a new definition which can accommodate every expression of visual art.” The New Art Movement in Indonesia advocated a postmodern approach to art and encouraged the exploration of artistic media such as performance and installation while maintaining contextual focus on social criticism. FX Harsono’s 1975 work, ‘Paling Top’ is one of the best examples to illustrate both the ingenuity as well as inherent critique present in the works of this group.            

FX Harsono, ‘Paling Top’, 1975 (remade 2006), plastic rifle, textile, wooden crate, wire mesh and LED tube. Image courtesy National Gallery Singapore.

Another postmodern artistic union is The Artists Village founded by Singaporean artist Tang Da Wu in 1988. The objectives of the artist collective were to “foster and develop an increased consciousness of the importance of the arts” and “their contribution to the Singaporean society”. Against Singapore’s rapid economic developments in the 1980s, the union of creative minds wielded a transformative impact on the Singapore’s art scene, from performance art to new media.

While The Artists Village did not emerge as a reaction to a politically challenging situation as in the case of the GRSB, it was also set up “to critically re-look and examine existing assumptions, values and concepts of art making in Singapore”.  The city state was at the time struggling with its identity and retention of local culture in the face of globalisation. Lee Wen’s ‘Yellow Man’ is an artwork that gives visual form to these national anxieties.

Lee Wen, ‘Journey of A Yellow Man No. 11: Multi-Culturalism’, 1997, inkjet print on archival paper. Image courtesy National Gallery Singapore.

As illustrated above, artist collectives in the region go beyond the idea of practical collaboration to unite like-minded individuals who seek to bring about change, whether by means of active participation or direct critique, and they do so by banding together. As Lois Frankel once said, “A lone voice isn’t as important as a collective voice”. Creative thought and activity in Southeast Asia has frequently had a direct relation to the artists’ local socio-political circumstances, and traces of these historical initiatives can still be seen today in the inclination of recent artist collectives to incorporate social criticism and embrace diversity in their bodies of work.

This article was written by Tanya Singh for Art Republik 18.

Bally CEO Frédéric de Narp Proven Right as Profits Rise on US and Japanese Growth

Introducing the Bally Spring Summer 2018 Campaign
Introducing the Bally Spring Summer 2018 Campaign

When Chinese textile company Shandong Ruyi Group inked a deal in February 2018 to purchase a controlling stake in Swiss luxury shoes and leather company Bally from Luxembourg-based JAB Holding, all indications was that Bally was on the path of profitability but there was some nagging concerns on whether the increasing number of Chinese luxury producers buying up famous European brands at a frantic rate would come with the requisite management and distribution skills to cement the brand positions of their new acquisitions with consumers. Yesterday, Bally Chief Executive Officer Frédéric de Narp told Reuters that Bally made its biggest underlying profit in a decade in end 2017, supported largely by growing US and Japanese markets.

Business of Luxury: Bally CEO Frédéric de Narp Proven Right as Profits Rise on US and Japanese Growth

“This is an important milestone for Shandong Ruyi Group to become a global leader in the fashion apparel sector,” Qiu Yafu, chairman of Shandong Ruyi Group, to sohu.com.

Beginning late 2016 to early 2017, Bally CEO Frédéric de Narp began streamlining the Swiss label to create “speed and agility” in the business, and thus more reactive to market trends. Consolidating operations in Milan and Caslano, Switzerland, it moved creative and communications teams out of London and centralised them  in-house within a collective of designers while creating a strategy which put customers front and centre at everything they produced. Whether this was precipitated by the departure of Bally’s design director Pablo Coppola was uncertain, what is certain was that de Narp retained Coppola’s design team while crediting Coppola’s creative work as instrumental. However, de Narp quickly realised that merchandising, creative, press and marketing operations based in London far from production in Milan and Caslano, created a situation far from ideal.

Pablo Coppola's work as Bally's Head Designer was instrumental in reviving the ailing brand
Pablo Coppola’s work as Bally’s Head Designer was instrumental in reviving the ailing brand

Notably, Bally only moved to London after previous owners, Luxemborg-based JAB operated out of 10 Howick Place. According to de Narp, it was during this time that the Swiss brand would start dealing with days lost as samples travelled inter-Europe between Bally’s historic home is in Caslano and London. Furthermore, prompted by fast-moving, often unpredictable market conditions (affected mainly by the uptick in European terror attacks), currency fluctuations and customs regulations, Bally was in essence, fighting with an arm tied behind its back.

At the time, though de Narp declined to discuss Bally’s 2016 profit figures, he let on that Bally’s revenue advanced 4% in fiscal 2016, with earnings before interest, taxes, depreciation and amortization doubling.

Bally Chief Executive Officer Frédéric de Narp is largely credited with reviving the Swiss brand
Bally Chief Executive Officer Frédéric de Narp is largely credited with reviving the Swiss brand

JAB purchased Bally from Texas Pacific Group in 2008 for an estimated CHF 600 million to 700 million (US$558 million to $650 million) and Bally CEO Frédéric de Narp declared a revenue target of $1 billion by 2021. How? By tripling Bally’s US business, beginning with a 4,320 square feet Madison Avenue flagship while developing China and consolidating China’s 58 stores to just 45.

“Sales at the privately-held company have grown over the past two years and the company booked its biggest core profit (earnings before interest, tax, depreciation and amortization) in ten years in 2017.” – CEO Frédéric de Narp to Reuters

Bally of Switzerland 2017-2018 Fall Autumn Winter
Bally of Switzerland 2017-2018 Fall Autumn Winter

Bally’s Growth Picks Up Pace, 2017 and on..

De Narp, joined Bally in 2011, from high jeweller Harry Winston, and is largely credited for reviving the once ailing Swiss brand after years of less than appealing collections which lead to stagnant sales. High turnover of designers and management also failed to produced any coherent direction for the brand. Six years on, the company moved to a bigger 15,120 square feet facility in Tuscany, Italy in March 2017, catering to the new CEO’s lofty vision. In a recent 18 April 2018 interview with Reuters, CEO Frédéric de Narp announced that “Sales at the privately-held company have grown over the past two years and the company booked its biggest core profit (earnings before interest, tax, depreciation and amortization) in ten years in 2017.”

He added that the United States is Bally’s fastest-growing market, buoyed by collaborations with rappers like U.S. hip hop recording artist Swizz Beatz (who previously worked with Audemars Piguet) and street artists like Ricardo Cavolo. The resulting capsule collections featuring hip hop culturally relevant accessories and garments have encouraged sales in the U.S. by more than 20% in 2018, bigger than the 14% growth in 2017.

Bally of Switzerland 2017-2018 Fall Autumn Winter
Bally of Switzerland 2017-2018 Fall Autumn Winter

Chinese Shandong Ruyi Group bought Swiss Bally from Luxemborg JAB in February 2018. The Chinese textile maker had growing its network of luxury clothing and accessories; acquiring 41% of Japanese apparel maker Renown for about US$36.8 million in 2010, later, they took over French fashion company SMCP in 2016.A year after, Ruyi bought a controlling stake in Hong Kong-based menswear group Trinity for US$284.62 million. Bally is the Group’s latest addition to a stable already consisting of British suit maker Gieves & Hawkes, and menswear designer and fragrance house Cerruti 1881.

China is Bally’s strongest market, a position which can be attributed to the brand’s early entry into the territory in the 1980s when the country opened up to foreign investment. That said, the critical element is that as more and more Chinese firms buy famous brands in overseas markets to improve their own local luxury catchet, industry insiders are concerned about whether the new owners can properly maintain the value of the brands they have bought.

Bally of Switzerland 2017-2018 Fall Autumn Winter
Bally of Switzerland 2017-2018 Fall Autumn Winter

Chinese-made luxury goods do not carry the best reputations compared to Swiss counterparts and when Shandong Ruyi made a play for Bally, there were misgivings on whether Bally might be devalued after being acquired, undoing de Narp’s hard work. Under terms of the acquisition agreement, de Narp and his team are contractually committed to stay at Bally for more than five years.

According to a February 2018 report released by McKinsey & Co: Chinese consumers spent 166 billion yuan ($26 billion) on luxury goods in the domestic market in 2016. Thus, it is predicting that following current trends, spending will continue to rise to 441 billion yuan by 2025. Furthermore, the same report postulates that consumption of luxury products by Chinese consumers will account for 44 percent of the total consumption in the sector across the world by the same year.

Bally will open its first Chinese flagship store in Beijing’s luxury shopping destination – China World shopping mall later this year with popular local actress Tiffany Tang helping with the brand’s promotional campaigns in the market.

Bally of Switzerland 2017-2018 Fall Autumn Winter
Bally of Switzerland 2017-2018 Fall Autumn Winter

 

This isn’t a Church in Europe

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Church of St. Alphonsus, colloquially known as Novena Church (after a series of intercessory devotions to Mother Mary), is one of Singapore’s most iconic Catholic churches, rises as a striking Gothic-inspired sanctuary after being closed for an extensive overhaul. Featuring soaring arches, intricate columns, a dome and 24 large stained glass windows, it will transport you to Europe in its beauty.

Two angels holding candelabras; the new church can now accommodate 1,500 worshipers in air-conditioned comfort.

With a 67-year history, the Novena Church closed for an extensive $54-million revamp since 3 years ago to provide a more conducive and accommodative environment for worshippers.

Reopened in late 2017, the building is inspired by European Gothic architecture, with a gleaming new exterior is clad in granite. The facade features soaring arches, intricate columns, a dome and 24 large stained glass windows.

A set of the Stations of the Cross hand-carved from plaster and cast in fibreglass. The set of 14 stations was made in Cebu, Philippines and took one and a half years to complete.

Besides beautiful limestone designs, the church interior is now air conditioned with a special antiviral and antibacterial scent that features the essential oils of frankincense, rosemary, lavender and citrus.

A three-storey building housing a 200-seater auditorium and multipurpose hall has also been constructed to replace the previous termite-infested building.

Majestic panels of stained glass at the East End of the church feature full portraits of Our Lady of Ransom (left), St Joseph (right), and Jesus, the Most Holy Redeemer in the centre.

The design team behind the revamp described the building to be “reminiscent of European churches”, its original, conserved form back in the 1950s designed by the architectural firm Swan and Maclaren. This design is rare for modern Catholic churches in SIngapore that favour more practical styles due to land constraints.

Mr Melvin Gamayot of CGN Architects said that the project was pressurising: “I usually design condominiums and commercial projects such as hotels, so I had a lot of sleepless nights coming up with a design and communicating this to contractors.”

A look at the traditional curved ceilings inspired by King Solomon.

He shares his source of inspiration from the bible scripture of king Solomon’s temple carved with engravings of palm trees. “I clad the columns of the main sanctuary hall in curved segments of limestone to create the appearance of a cluster of thin palm tree trunks with ribs, reaching for the heaven.”

An exterior view of the old (left) and new prayer halls of the Novena Church, vastly different in size.

More popularly known as the Novena Church, the Church of St. Alphonsus is located on 300 Thompson Road. 

Enjoy some Palm Springs vibes in Your Home

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Stephen Kenn of Stephen Kenn Studio, a Los Angeles based design outfit, has unveiled a new 10-piece outdoor collection.

Inspired by the stark desert landscapes of southern California, this collection is simple, modular, and customizable. The collection is highlighted by the Loveseat, Shade Lounge, and a sectional sofa that can be compactly stacked and stored.

With such unmistakable Palm Springs vibe in the campaign images, these are certainly perfect for a lazy poolside afternoon.

Retail prices range from $1,100 to $4,500 with endless customizable options.

Visit their website for more details.

Tiffany scores top marks for ethical mining

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Sustainable and ethical are hot keywords in the luxury industry. In the most recent Human Rights Watch (HRW) study, Tiffany and Co. emerges at the top for their significant efforts and contributions to address human rights risks in the gold and diamond supply chain.

The single supply mine where Tiffany sources gold from has also regulations in place to conduct regular human rights assessments. The Board of Directors also adopts a Conflict Minerals Policy, which articulates principles for responsible gold mining to its vendors. 

Tiffany is one of the five companies to establish a code of conduct in their contracts that aligns with the United Nations Guiding Principles on Business and Human Rights, along with other brands such as Bvlgari, Signet Jewelers, Pandora and Chopard. The contract details expectations regarding human rights, labor practices, environmental protection, and ethical business conduct, all of which comply with the Kimberley Process and World Diamond Council System of Warranties.

To realise the code of conduct, suppliers are required to conduct periodic self-assessments of human rights risks. Regular audits are conducted and systems have been created in place to respond to risks in their supply chain to ensure standards are met. Diamonds are only sourced from countries that are full participants in the Kimberley Process Certification Scheme.

Tiffany and Co. has helped launch Initiative for Responsible Mining Assurance (IRMA) and Development Diamond Initiative (DDI) that help formalize and promote responsible artisanal mining in both the diamond and gold sectors. In addition to showing financial support to develop responsible artisanal mines, Tiffany and Co. are also exploring the possibility of sourcing from certified mines that will be feasible.

Sustainability reports are published annually, including information on actions to achieve responsible mining, ethical sourcing, and approach to supplier audits. In 2014, Tiffany & Co. pledged that it sources 100 percent of its diamonds from known mines or suppliers with multiple known mines. Recently, Tiffany has also publicly revealed that its source of newly mined gold to from Bingham Canyon, a mine owned by Rio Tinto.

Raw precious metals in Tiffany’s trade can also be directly traced to a mine or recycler. 27 percent of its gold comes from this single mine and the remaining 73 percent comes from recycled sources sourced from a single supplier. Names of other suppliers have been shared with HRW on a confidential basis.

Apart from such efforts in the supply industry, Tiffany has also taken steps to reduce their environment footprints by using sustainably sourced paper and wood-fiber materials are used for their packaging. On the packaging front, Tiffany reports that the paper suppliers for its signature blue boxes and bags were Forest Stewardship Council (FSC)-certified.

Other brands in the report include Cartier, Chopard and Signet. For the complete list and more details, view the full HRW report.

Yacht Review: Newly Restyled Heesen 47M

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Yacht Review: Newly Restyled Heesen 47M

This full displacement vessel started on speculation as Project Ruya, says the builder. She is the 13th in Heesen’s newly restyled 47-metre class designed by Frank Laupman of Omega Architects. “Her classic-yet-contemporary design embodies everything we stand for at Heesen, combining such a striking, luxurious interior with state-of-the-art engineering and naval architecture.

Experienced owners have had 17 prior yachts

“A well-engineered steel hull with bulbous bow provides smooth and safe cruising in all sea conditions up to a top speed of 15 knots, with a transatlantic range of 4,000-nautical-mile at 12 knots.

“Guest and crew spaces have been improved over the years, thanks to the feedback of owners and captains. As we believe that happy crew make happy owners, we work with captains and engineers to constantly improve our yachts.

Immaculate interiors were customised by London-based Bannenberg and Rowell to reflect the Book Ends buyers’ lifestyle tastes

“For example, Book Ends wheelhouse is handsomely furnished to create an efficient working environment for the captain and his team. Her state-of-the-art bridge has been designed by our in-house experts, and built and installed with meticulous care and attention, keeping in mind any future maintenance requirements.

“We build with this degree of forethought. Book Ends has been built to exceed the latest MCA regulations for crew working space and accommodation.

“The galley, considered the heart of a yacht by some, has a very efficient and ergonomic layout, which we have perfected over the years thanks to the feedback of expert chefs who have worked on Book Ends’ sister ships.

“With large windows and separate crew corridor, this galley is the perfect set-up for preparing delicious meals in a safe and practical working environment with plenty of storage and work surfaces.

“Her engine room embodies all the knowledge we have acquired in 40 years of superyacht building. Spacious and perfectly Dutch organised, it offers the engineer easy-to-access equipment for efficient operation and maintenance.

Another lounge and some features

“The owners and guests can enjoy the interior space at its best, as we have optimised the 499 Gross Tons in five spacious staterooms. Book Ends interior was designed by London-based studio Bannenberg & Rowell, which offered the experienced owners – who have owned no less than 17 yachts – the perfect base to personalise spaces to their taste and lifestyle.”

The owners themselves comment that Book Ends is the culmination of a lifetime of yacht ownership and “the inevitable step as our vessels continue to grow in size and scope.”

“As experienced and knowledgeable owners, we took our time finding the right yacht after selling our previous 40-metre. I had famously said of the 40-metre that ‘this is the last boat we are ever going to need’ and while that yacht was used well over two and a half years, I had always dreamt of spending a summer in the Med.

“Our next yacht needed to be something with greater stability and range. Finding the full-displacement, steel hull and 4,000-nautical-mile range of the Heesen 47-metre Steel proved to be the perfect fit.

“We were quite discerning in our requirements, in everything from style to performance and storage to quality. We appreciated also the consistency of the proven platform of the Heesen 47-metre class.

“The expanse of windows in the yacht was an attraction, as we enjoyed how light and bright it made the interior. I had looked at comparable boats by another builder, which I found to be very boxy and dark inside by comparison, though it was technically bigger.

“Despite taking delivery near the build completion, we put our own stamp on the project, changing our design details and making it our own.

The only compromise we made, because it was too far along to change, was having only one bathroom in the master rather than his and hers.

“There is an impressive amount of storage on board. Usually your crew will be complaining there’s not enough storage, but we have more storage than they’ve been able to fill. The storage afforded and the overall headroom and spaciousness in the crew areas was a draw for us as the crew is a part of the family. So it was important they have comfortable accommodation and be able to move around the boat with ease.

We enjoyed the Mediterranean season, visiting as intended, and look forward to many more weeks aboard

“The sky lounge is our refuge, an especially calming area with curved walls, a circular lifted ceiling and a round rug, floating together in perfect harmony. It’s really Zen with this circular ceiling, circular table and circular rug. We made a few changes but not many. It’s a very soothing space.

“The outdoor spaces cannot be overlooked. The sundeck is incredible. We have parties, we host friends and family. I rarely do business entertaining on the boat. It’s not a business tool for me.

Yachting is our sanity.

“Book Ends is an entirely private yacht. We have enjoyed the Mediterranean season, visiting as intended, and spending time with family and friends while discovering new cruising grounds. We look forward to many more weeks spent onboard, in our sanctuary from the outside world.”

Words by Joe Lim | Images courtesy of Jeff Brown and Tiziano Canu

*** This article is republished from Issue 42 of Yacht Style.

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